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New Slow Fashion Caucus brings attention to clothing pollution

The caucus has a goal of implementing "climate-smart" policies in the fashion sector.
A pile of clothing
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A group of Democratic lawmakers announced the first-ever Congressional Slow Fashion Caucus to curb the ever-growing fast fashion epidemic. The founding members of the caucus and other sustainable fashion industry leaders, workers and influencers gathered on Capitol Hill last month to make the big announcement.

Surrounded by supporters holding signs that read, “Reduce, Repair, Rewear, Recycle”, caucus founder Rep. Chellie Pingree, a Democrat from Maine, addressed how fast fashion has exacerbated environmental issues.

“Last year I became aware of a pile of discarded clothing in the Chilean desert so big that it can be seen from outer space,” Pingree said. “And the fact is we are very concerned about the climate crisis.”

Pingree is a ranking member of the House Appropriations Interior and Environment Subcommittee, meaning she works with the Environmental Protection Agency. She hopes that already having an established connection with the EPA will help the caucus create successful legislation.

“Often, people don’t understand the role that fashion is playing today in our climate crisis,” Pingree said.

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Big retail companies such as Patagonia were also in attendance at the press conference, alongside ThreadUP, the largest online thrift store, and representatives from the Garment Worker Center, a worker's rights organization, to address their concerns about mass-produced clothing.

Chief legal officer of ThreadUp, Alan Rotem, said the launch of the Slow Fashion Caucus is a good starting point to establish "climate-smart" policies in the fashion sector.

“The launch of the Slow Fashion Caucus gives us a powerful platform to forge ahead,” Rotem said. “Together, we can drive the fashion policy agenda forward and change the incentive structures to benefit our shared planet and resources.”

Speakers shared how their outfits were environmentally friendly when they took their turn at the podium, whether that meant thrifting their dress or how their purse was made of sustainable textiles.

“I’m an LA girl and so I love looking stylish, but mostly when it is sustainable,” said caucus member Rep. Sydney Kamlager-Dove, D-Calif. “In fact, my whole outfit today is sustainable.”

“I also like to thrift. This is a secondhand sweater and it looks great, right everybody?” Pingree said. “In fact, my bag is made of recycled leather.”

Putting a sustainable twist on their version of the outfit of the day, members of Congress proved it is possible to still be “trendy” without contributing to the climate crisis as an incentive to shop for quality rather than cheaply.

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“When I have to replace my work boots every year instead of the five years that used to work,” caucus member Rep. Marie Gluesenkamp Perez, D-Wash., said. “America trades, people lose.”

Behind the glamor of the fashion world, fast fashion replaces well-made clothing and garment worker wages with the convenience of quickly-made and cheap clothing. To meet fast turnaround times at extremely low piece-rates, according to a member leader at the Garment Worker Center, fast-fashion companies offer minimum wage and harsh work conditions.

“What slow fashion would mean to me is a production model that allows me and my fellow workers to be treated with respect at work,” the garment worker said. “Where my labor and skill are valued in the production process.”

The new caucus relays messages similar to The FABRIC Act, advocating for domestic apparel production, improvements in fashion-industry working conditions and reforming the piece-rate pay scale. However, the proposal of the FABRIC Act hasn’t moved past committee since introduced in 2022.

Kamlager-Dove was a co-sponsor of the bill, and believes the new-birthed caucus is a more centralized outlet focusing on issues within the fashion industry, with better chances to gain federal-level attention.

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“The push for sustainable fashion has yet to gain federal momentum,” Kamlager-Dove said. “Which is why it is so exciting we are launching the Slow Fashion Caucus.”

Collectively, the new caucus aims to execute environmental and fair labor practices to develop policies, especially before leaving irreversible damage.

“Reshoring textile production and processing is a win-win and win for our economy, our workers and the environment,” Pingree said.

As the new caucus continues to increase public awareness, it believes public policy is the best way to offer solutions to apparel industry issues.